27 - 07 - 2006 part II

After my rather long internet session I left Irkutsk and headed for Ulan-Ude. 20 kms out of Irkutsk the mountains start. It is nice to drive on the winding road with steep climbs and descends, but one should be careful. The quality of the Russian roads makes you slow down. It was raining a bit so the patchwork on the road can be treacherously slippery. 20kms before Kultuk, the road turns real bad again. Just before Kultuk you have a very nice view of beautiful Lake Baikal. I stop for a picture and some Russian bikers stop there too. They ask me if I am going to the Baikal Shaman bike festival. I had no clue there was a festival and insistent and inviting as Russians can be I agree to follow them to the festival. The festival is 30kms from Kultuk on the road to Mongolia. It actually doesn't start until tomorrow, but we are allowed on the premises and set up our tents. These Russians are from Bratsk and also attended the festival in Tomsk. They know of Doug and his Indian, but didn't know about me. All Russians I have met up to now are just amazed, well baffled is a better word, as to why in God's name I bought an Ural. They also cannot comprehend the price this machine costs in Europe. Once I explain my reasons to them they sort of understand. They are proud of their Russian built motorcycles and admire me for what I am doing.

In good Russian tradition my hosts (yes, I am their guest) provide everything for me: beer, vodka, food, ... They even gave me a festival t-shirt as a gift. The least I can do is share all the food that I have with me. They bought some fish at the lake. This is the Omul fish and apparently it can only be found in Lake Baikal. It is delicious. A couple of people speak a bit of English, so conversations are possible, although at a basic level. It is however no problem for me to just sit and listen to the Russians talking and telling jokes even though I do not understand what they are saying. Sometimes they will translate a bit of the conversation to me, but it is not really necessary for me, I enjoy the company.